🔗 Share this article

When assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, tucked near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The accolade has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop achieving such a prominent position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.